Grape expectations: Three French wine estates where a sustainable, eco-minded ethos marries with a luxurious holiday escape
Deep in France’s sleepy, sun-drenched south, a quiet revolution is taking place among the rolling vineyards and olive groves of three historic Languedoc wine estates. Over the last 15 years, Domaine & Demeure has lovingly restored a trio of fairy-tale châteaux into stylish getaways for families and oenophiles alike. Now these elegant estates are leading the way in sustainable, sensitive farming, transforming their gardens and grounds into a biodiverse haven. If that sounds like a lofty vision, D&D’s dynamic founders Karl and Anita O’Hanlon are keen to give guests a chance to see the project in action, from joining foraging tours and learning about permaculture to taking the kids to make furry friends at the mini farm.
This being France, food and wine take centre stage. Viniculture on the wine estates is thriving under the expertise of partners Vignobles Bonfils, with accolades being won not only for the superb wines produced but for the increasingly ecologically-minded manner in which the vines are cultivated. Château Capitoul (which has been making wine since Phoenician times, around 600BC) has been certified HVE (Haute Valeur Environmentale), in recognition of its efforts towards protecting biodiversity, preservation of water and stewardship of both vines and soils. So you can enjoy a glass or two, guilt-free…
There’s already a strong focus on seasonal, local produce, with the estates’ expansive organic kitchen gardens supplying top-notch fresh ingredients for the restaurants at all three properties. Karl and Anita have plans to ramp this up even further, however. At Château St Serjac, the bountiful potager and orchards are being expanded to provide a constant supply of seasonal fruit, vegetables and herbs. Meanwhile, at Château Les Carrasses, farmer Mario (and his sidekick Eliot the pig) welcome visits to the mini farm, where free-range chickens peck alongside beehives. There are plenty more green initiatives in progress here, too – from electric car charging stations to an ambitious solar farm, all aimed at reducing the estate’s carbon footprint.
One of the most exciting projects is underway at Château Capitoul, led by a visionary team of world-renowned botanist Olivier Filippi and acclaimed garden designer James Basson. Working in harmony with the arid climate in this region of Southern France, they have created an astounding ‘dry garden’, using resilient yet beautiful native plant species specially adapted to grow without artificial watering, fertilisers or herbicides. Seedlings are planted in deep ‘cuvettes’ to channel the little rain that falls here and thrive with minimal human input. Over 75,000 plants & a hundred native species have been planted, resulting in a vibrant Mediterranean oasis that is flourishing without squandering precious water.
Along with a rich plant life, Château Capitoul is home to 400 bird species (eyes peeled for a sighting of a majestic Bonelli’s eagle) and large colonies of bats, which fly over the lagoons at dusk in search of an insect supper. From mid-July to Nov, the fascinating ornithological landmark Roc de Conilhac, funnels the autumn flow of migratory birds, enabling lucky guests to experience the massive migration of over 30,000 birds. Meanwhile, the estate’s traditional dry-stone walls form important habitats for endangered occelated lizards, along with small mammals, lichen and mosses.
It all adds up to a remarkable, environmentally-centred ethos upon which the wine estates are built. There’s a real sense of guardianship, restoring the heritage buildings to their former glory and preserving and protecting them for future generations. All done, of course, while seamlessly delivering some of the loveliest luxury hideaways in France.
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